BLOOD, SWEAT & SPEARS

FOR A WILD RIDE IN NUSA TENGGARA, LOOK NO FURTHER THAN WEST SUMBA’S PASOLA.

Two groups of horsemen on agile ponies face each other on a battlefield. They patiently wait. Suddenly, a leader heels his mount for the charge. The opposing teams surge as the single warrior leading them attempts to isolate one of the opposition for the “kill”. At full gallop, the leader evades a shower of lances. Reaching his target, he flings is spear. His deadly aim lands squarely and strongly on the body of his opponent. Fortunately, the blunt spear bounces off with a thud. Women, children and a handful of foreigners shriek wildly for the triumphant warrior.

Having discharged his lance, the leader drops his reigns. With both hands he fends off his opponent’s spears, using his legs masterfully to guide his horse back to the sidelines. Charging and whirling, the other horsemen begin hurling taunts and spears at each other. The atmosphere is charged with tension as the melee gathers momentum.

We’re in the village of Wanukaka, and West Sumba’s time-honored Pasola is in full swing. No mere exhibition for tourists, this pageant of scores of masterful horsemen wielding spears in a frenetic pitched battle is authentic and unforgettably brilliant. For the Sumbanese, the Pasola is an integral part of maintaining peaceful and fruitful ancestral traditions. For the visitor, it is a unique display that surpasses all expectations.

Sumba lies south of West Flores and Komodo, about a one-hour flight east of Bali. Known for its sandalwood forests and small but sturdy horses, Sumba has the richest tribal culture in Nusa Tenggara, with its thatched clan houses, colossal carved tombs, outstanding ikat cloth and bloody sacrificial funerals. West Sumba is Indonesia’s Wild West and is known as the Island of the Sandalwood Horse.

West Sumba is so extraordinarily attached to its animistic beliefs that Sumba is the only island in the archipelago where animistic religion is officially recognized by the Indonesian government. Animism is central to the many hilltop villages of West Sumba. Flanking Waikabubak are traditional hilltop villages with huge thatched high peaked houses shaped like large straw hats as high as 15 meters. Each house faces a central square containing giant megalithic stone tombs – the people in these villages actually live with their dead.

For many traditional Sumbanese, the Biggest event in life is death, which is celebrated with the slaughter of pigs and buffalos, and the ritual burial of the body in sitting position draped in the finest ikat cloth. The greater the status of the deceased, the bigger the stone slab. Huge gravestone on scenic plateaus mark the final resting place of some of the Pasola’s past heroes.

“To die in the Pasola,” said a village elder, “is the best honor.” The Pasola also serves as both a people’s court and a beacon of fortune, allowing people to avenge intervillage grievances and draw blood to ensure a successful rice harvest.

The word Pasola comes from the local word “sola”, meaning spear. The event is central to West Sumbanese custom, and is held about seven to eight days after the full moon in February and March at the villages of lamboya and Kodi, Gaura and Wanukara. The event is triggered by the mass appearance of the nyale is an indicator to a Rato, or high priest, as to whether the impending rice crops will be plentiful or meager.

Several nights before the nyale are expected, Ratos position themselves on the beaches along the coastal shore. The number and behavior of the nyale will determine the success of the imminent rice crops – provided the Pasola is performed well.

For weeks prior to the coming of the nyale, the beaches are avoided; and in the frenzied days before the Pasola, locals are forced to refrain from fishing. Stories abound of families slain by monsters and entire village wiped out after violating the sanctity of the Pasola.

The Pasola is preceded by pajura, or evening boxing contests. Some villages host competitions where contestants exchange verbal abuse for hours. Often the abuse is genuine and heated. Intervillage conflict is an ongoing trend in West Sumba where entire thatched hut villages are frequently burned to the ground allegedly by neighboring villages.

The Pasola is initially an briefly instigated on the beach. Then the opposing teams of about 150 per side move to firm ground. This is the sacred Pasola field, where battles have taken place for centuries.

This is a wild an martial event during which serious accidents and occasional death still occur. The Indonesian government insisted many years ago that only blunt spears be used to reduce the once high number of fatalities. In olden times, the ritual turned the fields red.

The Pasola continues through most of the day without rest and sometimes carries on into the next day. One miraculous feature of the event remains as mysterious as coming of the nyale. As any guide will tell you – and as any visitor will observe – the day of the Pasola is invariably fine weather, even if it has been raining the previous several days. Guides readily explain that this phenomenon is a “gift of grace” from the ancestor for the Pasola. Its message : let the games begin…..

BALI BITES BACK

BALI’S NEW EASTERN BITE IS AS FRESH AS THE SEA BREEZE.

For years, the smart word with food lovers was that while Bali offered a smorgasbord of food from Western shores, it was all but barren when it came to interesting and affordable Asian cuisine. But those times seem far behind us now, as more visitors now hail from the East and seek a more genuine Asian dining experience. So leave those burgers or pizzas on the Kuta strip behind, and discover timeless classics, upmarket haunts and hidden culinary treasures serving quality Eastern bites across the island.

THE CLASSICS
There are few better places to start than at the original Made’s Wrung in Seminyak. To lovers of this timeless restaurant, Made’s feels part of the island’s identity. It is also a must for first-time tourists anda families, who will love popular offerings like the shabu-shabu. Paintings, memorabilia and nostalgic posters lend the indoor area a warm and cosy feel, and tables spill out into the courtyard. Distinguished local stores such as Jenggala homeware, Periplus bookstores, Bin House batik collection and Milo’s fashion surround the lively area.
The less crowded suburban Sanur is home to another classic, Café Batu Jimbar-a sun-soaked spot that redefines how you spend your Sunday mornings with its organic market. From 9am, the place helps heighten community awareness by involving locals to serves Indonesian traditional food such as tahu petis (very spicy tofu) and lontong sayur (rice cake with vegetables in coconut sauce and turmeric). This organic market occupies the front patio of the semi-open air casual dining square, where wood-paneled glass doors stretch from parquet floor to ceiling. Tiled triangle roofs also add to the intimate feel.
Dig a little deeper into your wallet at Jalan Kunti in Seminyak, where the two-storey Bale-Bali has been serving Chinese food since 2000, Bale-Bali serves a delectable bebek dua rasa or two-flavoured duck; the sweet and sour fried gurame fish and grilled beef ribs in honey sauce are also highly recommended. After a delightful feast with a garden-like ambience, enjoy the laidback mini lounge upstairs with its pretty collection of silk wrapped embroidered cushions.
Back in pulsating Seminyak, heat to Japanese chain Ryoshi, which is famous for its reasonably priced and fresh sushi and sashimi. Be sure to try the buttery white marlin sashimi. Featuring bamboo, wood and paper panels, Ryoshi can be found in Sanur, Ubud and Nusa Dua. Seminyak is also home to Indian Restaurant Queen’s Tandoor, which remains filled with enthusiastic diners since it opened in 2004. Offering treats from all regions of India that are prepared by Indian Chefs, the restaurant’s main hall has high ceilings and a formal air, with a terrace that is more leisurely.

LAVISH HABITS
Recent additions to the Bali mix include the gorgeous beachfront Breeze at the Samaya. Its crispy soft shell crab with green mango papaya salad and Thai basil is a great choice for appetizer. As for the main course, you could do far worse than Noni-wrapped Tasmanian salmon with soba noodles, gai lan and vegetables in a lemongrass-shirodashi broth. Replete with Japanese lanterns, a wooden sundeck, a lush lawn and a lagoon-like pool, Breeze is perfect for romance.
At the new an uber cool restaurant Sarong, you could point at anything on the menu and not be disappointed. Rumor has it that the raw chicken or tuna on betel leaves will change your life; that its tandoori is well-spices and elegant; and that the Sumatran chicken is tender, juicy and addictive. The elegant atmosphere is futher enhanced by the super-sized mirror over the bar and its Baroque chandeliers.
Five-star hotels and resort pay special attention to enriching Bali with Eastern bites, and charge unabashed five-star prices in doing so. In Tanjung Benoa, the Conrad Bali’s modern grill, spice, offer a strong Asian twist; it also serves primal and rare sub-primal cuts of Wagyu beef with a marbling grade of 9+. Spice has an extensive Asian menu and its own tandoori oven.
St. Regis Bali, the latest addition to the luxurious Nusa Dua resort area, answers the call too with Boneka, which serves excellent chicken and beef curry dishes.

THE TREASURES
When you don’t feel like having a high class meal, a small nasi Bali – or Bali-style rice – will serve you perfectly. Found on the sidewalks of Kuta, Legian and Tuban, this backpacker’s favorite comprises small portions of rice, chicken, veggies and an egg, served home-style.
If you have a Fear Factor – like taste for spicy food, head to Jalan Raya Kuta and the super hot chili rice vendor, Nasi Pedas. The chili steamed rice is guaranteed to make you sweat, and comes with a choice of crispy fried salted fish and crunchy chicken skin or vegetables. You eat it on communal long tables with plastic stools.
Famous among Indonesian and Javanese immigrants is Nasi Pecel Bu Tinuk on Jalan Raya Kuta, next to Kimia Farma pharmacy. The homemade cooking and its wide variety of sweet and sometimes spicy Indonesian dishes attract lunch-goers. Point at whatever you fancy, and the waiter will add each dish to your plate while he calculates the cheap price. Enjoy your meal inside the modest setting while the TV runs local favorite soap operas.
Finally, you can never claim to know Bali unless you munch its famous suckling pig. Bu Oka’s joint is legendary, but if Ubud is too far, visit Bali Guling Candra in Denpasar’s provincial Jalan Teuku Umar instead. Chewy skin crackers, pork sausages and super-tasty fish satay will fill your plate. Candra’s suckling pig is daredevil spicy. The warung is medium sized, hot and mostly crowded, so wear your most comfortable clothes. See you there soon.

Jakarta Old City

Jakarta’s “old city”, known also as Kota, clings tightly to its rich neoclassical heritage, and offers both locals and tourists alike an authentic and reminiscent glimpse into the country’s unique past.

Stretching from the ancient spice trading harbor of Sunda Kelapa to the pearly buildings of Fatahillah Square, Old Jakarta stands as one of the city’s sole reminders of three centuries of Dutch colonialism and what a stunning reminder it is. Such preservations of the past are a rare find in a city saturated with urban infrastructure, mega-malls, and conurbation conveniences.
Right in the heart of Old Jakarta lies Fatahillah Square, a simple but eye-catching courtyard that showcases the best of the Dutch Empire’s architecture and artifacts. The colonizers named the area Batavia, and in its heyday, the square was the commercial and administrative nucleus of the new rulers.

Today, the tiled square is free of traffic, and the tree-lined area is decorated with a smattering of abstract concrete spheres and antique street lights, which makes for an entertaining and relaxing resting spot to people watch. In the centre of the square is a line-up of official Kota Tua bicycle-taxis (ojeks) ready to peddle customers to their destination.

The area has attracted a sizable presence of young locals who keep the vibe energetic.

“The younger generation, those in their early twenties and teenagers, they appreciate this old town – especially the creative industry people. They always ask me, ‘Can we live here?’,” says co-founder of Jakarta Old Town Kotaku Ella Ubaidi.

The youth wander in packs throughout the square’s nooks and crannies, enjoying the ojek services and posing for a stream of photos for their friends’ cameras and cell phones.
At the head of the square is the Jakarta Museum of History, a grand building that boldly displays “Gouverneurs Kantor” (Governor’s Office) above its main entrance. The 37-room buildings, surrounded by Portuguese cannons, was the original Town Hall for Batavia in the 1700s. Today, it displays memorabilia and antiques from several of Jakarta’s foreign influences.

The most breathtaking part of the collection is the striking teakwood furniture from the Dutch renaissance period. On the first level there is a handsome oversized table set at which the council deliberated the fate of convicts, as well as a pair of six-metre high filing cabinets that once stored state records. The balcony at the top of the staircase provides the best vantage point to view the square and the chous of Indonesian flags that are suspended from its buildings.
Also overlooking Fatahillah Square is the Museum of Fine Arts and Ceramics, which was not only the former office for the Council of Justice but also functioned as military barracks. The stunning columnar-style building is bordered by elegant while pillars and a moat of palm trees. Its gapped-tooth floorboards and spiral staircases create the perfect environment for the museum’s extensive collection of porcelain, sculptures, glass paintings and art from around Asia and Europe, many of which date back to ancient times.
The award-winning Batavia Café sits at the base of the square, and is the only business that is open through the evening (minus the smoky billiard room next door). The two-story restaurant / café / bar elegantly meshes Chinese décor, including red lanterns, art, and entertainment, with its regal architecture and antique furniture collection. There is an eye-catching wall behind the stairs that is choc-full of an eclectic collection of black and white photographs – featuring pop-art, political figures, celebrated faces and even fetish-style images. The collection extends through the upstairs bathrooms also, where Audrey Hepburn’s sly smile greets you at the door. The upstairs bar is full of shimmering chandeliers, heavy drapes, candle – lit tables, and ceiling – high floral arrangements – a combination rich in romanticism.

Just to the west-side of the café stands Wayang Puppet Museum – the former site of Batavia’s Protestant Church. The museum is filled to the brim with an enormous and eclectic collection of wooden and leather puppets and dolls from all around Indonesia and Southeast Asia. The collection at the Wayang Museum inserts a more traditional and indigenous touch to the Fatahillah Square. I am told that if you visit on a Sunday morning you can witness a live wayang kulit, a shadow performance with leather puppets.
The town of Batavia expanded vigorously in the mid 1600s due to its proximity to Sunda Kelapa Harbour, the major port for the booming spice trade at the time. Even to this day, the harbour boasts the world’s last functioning sailing fleet. The daily activities of the waterfront action as truly a sight to behold; the scene unfolds as a virtual re – stained pirate – like boats encircle the port’s perimeter, while hundreds of tanned dockers tirelessly transport their goods from boat to land and land to boat on a flimsy plank barely forty centimeters in width. Their backs are draped in layers of thick fabrics to assist in the manual transfer of heavy loads.

A young slight boy who perches on the wharf routinely hands out a single bamboo stick to every one of the stream of workers who enters the Suderhana Jaya Boat – they are then counted to calculate the total quantities on board.

The workers quietly dine along the seaport’s assembly of warungs that offer rice, noodles, and deep-fried treats from within tents strung with bananas and rambutan.
It is here that I discover that I too, as a blatant western-looking westerner, am also an attraction for the workers at Sunda Kelapa. One truck driver asks me if I will pose for a photo with him for his “collection”. The driver’s wares are another nod to the harbour’s history – his truck is transporting crates of Jamu, traditional Indonesian medicines produced from leaves, fruits, flowers and roots.

The nearby Bahari Maritime Museum offers respite from the heat of the dock, and is located in the original storage warehouse built by Dutch East India Company in 1652 for stocking their commodities. The three-storey warehouse comprises several buildings, each complete with iron-barred windows curtained with fading blue-shutters. The stooping doorframes between the buildings are the result of a gradually rising coast level. The rustic buildings are filled with models of sailing boats, larger – scale vessels, navigational apparatuses, cannons, and stunning photography of the harbour’s days gone by. A 30ft long boat from Papua can be found in the rear building. Just south of this is the VOC’s Uitkijk post – the port’s lookout tower. The site under the tower was where prisoners were jailed at this time.

Old Jakarta town also provides many surprises – just driving around the area you can see flashes of the pas – be it the large Dutch Empire’s great V.O.C sign on a building side, or the famous Dutch drawbridge over the Kali Besar that was used two centuries ago. These remnants are perhaps the most fascinating aspect of the city – they indicate its profound ability to stand the test of time despite centuries of inattention and unrelenting tropical weather.

Although the area has infinite historical value, aesthetically, many of the structures of Old Jakarta leave much to be desired, and it is no secret that the area is in dire need of attention. Countless buildings, despite being categorized as heritage sites, are revealing dilapidation that has all too easily been overlooked in the exuberance of Indonesian independence. At Fattahillah Square, just mere metres behind Café Batavia is a poignant example of such disregard – the hollow, windowless building highlight the severity of the area’s ruin. This part of Old Jakarta does not make the postcards.

It seems the former hub has been deserted in favour of the postmodern gleam that oozes from new Jakarta – and the cracks are showing through. While its days are by no means numbered, make sure you visit his capsule of Indonesian history while you still can.